Sailing the British Virgin Islands – April 2015

Our Course Around The BVI

April 2015 – Being able to sail a significant boat is always something I wanted to be able to do. Being raised on a farm in Wisconsin did not present many opportunities to do so. One day I decided to check for sailing lessons around Tampa and see what was available. Turns out they were all classes where you took your turn steering the boat but mostly watching someone else at their turn and listening to some instructor tell you how much fun it is and all his harrowing experiences … and I was surprised how expensive they were! So, going outside the box a little I checked out renting a sailboat in the Caribbean and seeing if I could find a way to do it that way. I found this place that would rent a 48 Ft sailboat for a week that was fully furnished with an ASA (American Sailing Association) Certified instructor, a First Mate who would prepare all our meals and take care of us, and all our meals for a reasonable price. I booked the boat and bought tickets for our trip to the BVI. Before I left home however, I was required to complete three courses that ASA offers to help prepare you for your lessons. While I never really liked school very much I did enjoy studying and learning about sail boats and sailing. Terms (sailors have their own language), knots, rules, navigation, etc … I studied hard for several months before we set off … and then we were off. We drove to Miami and caught flight to Tortola in the British Virgin Islands (BVI). Interesting flights with each connection producing a smaller airplane until I thought we would have peddle.

Anyhow, we made it there and met a gentlemen there that took us to the marina on the other side of the island and introduced us to our Skipper and First Officer … Scott & Renee Sawyer. They were married and had an impressive background in both sailing and hospitality. Scott had a successful career in the Navy as a Special Teams Boat Driver (These are the guys that get the SEALs to their destination). He is also a fully qualified Ship Captain and a very interesting guy. Renee is a licensed Chef and has worked in some very impressive hotels before she ran off with Scott. Anyhow, they are a lovely couple to sail with and we had a wonderful time. Scott introduced me to my schedule so I was aware that the days would consist of instruction, demonstration, testing, and fun … I liked the last part best! So here is our boat. A 48 Ft monohull with a full jib and lots of room.

Renee, as I mentioned is a Chef … she is also a Fish Wisperer if you go diving with her (more on that later). Back to her Cheffing … Renee created not only very tasty meals but eye catching as well. She had fully stocked the galley with all our favorite foods (Pre-sailing survey) and drinks. The boat had an ice maker, an air conditioner, and with Renee in the Galley, we suffered no pain. Here are some of her creations.

We got on board, got settled in, and we were off. It was into the afternoon by the time were out of the marina so we just sailed across Sir Francis Drake Bay and anchored just off shore by a small resort. While Renee was getting dinner, Scott took us on Sir Charles into shore where we walked around a bit, looked through a gift shop, bought some provisions and went back to the boat. We had a lovely dinner and sacked out early … it had been a long day and the rocking boat put us right to sleep.

So this how our days went. We sailed for seven days (they are numbered 1 to 7 on the map at the from of this post). Our schedule was pretty much the same each day. We would get up and have some breakfast and check out the weather for the day … every day was perfect! After breakfast Scott and I would retire to the salon for instruction or testing, sometime both. Then lunch and getting underway. The afternoon sail was my hands on training as I would direct the disembarking procedures to the crew and sail to our next destination. Once we got there I would direct the crew in the docking procedures until were were anchored, buoyed, or docked. Then we would have some recreational activities (on shore excursion, diving, basking, whatever) until dinner. Then it was usually an early bedtime. As I mentioned, Scott is an excellent instructor, so he had everything mixed together to a point I didn’t even realize I was learning, being evaluated, or getting better much of the time … it was all fun.

You can see we went from Island to Island … each one was new and unique. I was learning how to sail and we were both having a great time. One of the first places we stopped was the island called Virgin Gorda which covered with huge granite boulders, called The Baths. We have seen boulders like this in other parts of the world but were surprised to find them here in the BVI. Our Afternoon recreation was to go ashore and climb through them and follow the Devil’s Bay Trail to a beach … beautiful.

Then there were the sunsets … every night different … every night better.

We stopped at another Island the had a large area around the marina that was dedicated to sailing and boating fun. There were shops, bars, restaurants, and a show in the evening. While there I had the opportunity to buy a Conc shell that I have learned to “Bugle” with. Pretty impressive if you ever hear it. Anyhow, we had a very nice afternoon and evening there.

Our Last Stop on the Southern Islands was near one of the Islands that owner of Virgin Airline owned. There is a big resort there with some very interesting heights to see from. We took a cab ride there and very much enjoyed the scenery.

Okay … So we left there and did our first Open Sea Leg … where you could not see land. The Eastern most Island in the BVI is Anagada or Drowned Island. It is very low and much of it is covered by high tides or surges. Here we anchored with about 500 other boats, went ashore and enjoyed an amazing Grilled Lobster Dinner.

Going back was good … we did a man overboard, where I had to turn and retrieve the target … not as easy as one would think under sail. Nancy also practiced in case we ever sailed alone and I fell off … she did well. Then we came into a norther Island that had a bunch of interesting things to see so we toured around for a while. It was one of the earlier settlements in the BVI and is still kept up

The little islands in the North East creat a great shelter for sea life so we took advantage of Renee our Fish Whisperer. Scott told us whenever she dives, there are always a lot of fish around. So we did some snorkeling. Great stuff.

Then off to our last night on the Fidelity and our last night out. Went to Foxy’s on the smallest of the BVI’s called Yost Van Dyke. In the event you never heard of Foxy’s it is supposed to be the most popular spot in the world for New Year’s Eve … was an interesting place. We all walked around and enjoyed the afternoon.

The next day we sailed back to Tortola, checked in through customs, said a sad farewell to Scott and Renee and took a cab back to the airport. I got all the ASA sailing certifications I was shooting for, we made some great friends, and had a super week.

Where Special People Work

The flight back was interesting. there was trouble getting our flight in to take us out and it ended up with just me and Nancy in this really shaky airplane that took us to Puerto Rico. Then a connection to Miami. We made it.

Author: Bill

Bill Rumpel served America as an Air Traffic Controller, a Commander of forces, and as an advisor to our country's senior leadership in peacetime and combat in the US Air Force for nearly, forty years of his adult life. Raised on a Wisconsin dairy farm and living most of his early years working hard or enjoying the outdoors, he has devoted his retirement years to telling stories based on true events with an intriguing mix of fiction and adventure. His books are published in 14 countries and in 9 different languages.

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